Siena palio: All in 90 seconds
Siena Palio : All in 90 seconds
Siena's Palio is one of the most difficult and ancient bareback horse race in the world with origins dating back centuries. Held annually in July and August, it attracts thousands of Italians and foreign visitors.
A few years ago I was asked to photograph the world famous Palio horse race but turned it down initially due to my concern that the animals might not be treated well. I had read news accounts about the mistreatment of Palio horses which made me wary of covering the event since I am very sensitive to issues involving animals and their well-being. However, the idea of shooting the Palio stuck in mind. Why? Perhaps it was because of my academic studies in anthropology and my longterm interest in the relationship between humans and animals. So I decided to visit Siena to learn more about this renowned historical and cultural annual tradition. Rather than finding mistreatment, I discovered that the horses in Siena are worshipped. For the people of Siena, the Palio horses are sacred. They are treated very well, even after they no longer run the race. The city's government pays for horse clinics and provides for their retirement in the beautiful Tuscan countryside. The Palio horses, along with rescued horses, spend their final years taken care of, complete with veterinarian care. Additionally, in the last few years strict laws have been enacted to protect horses before, during and after the race. The Palio is the most important event for Siena people. Although the race lasts less than 90 seconds, the citizens spend an entire year organising it. Every detail has to come together precisely. The tension mounts day by day, culminating on race day in July and again in August. After a year of planning and working on every aspect of the race, it begins and ends in under two minutes. I had the privilege of "living the Palio" with the Tartuca, one of the 17 contradas or districts competing each year. I worked side by side with the men of Tartuca for both Palios in July and August. Siena is divided into seventeen districts but only ten participate annually. Each one has its own flag, government and constitution and sees itself as a small city-state. The contrada is also a social organisation with its own church, museum, hymn, insignia and patron saint, a perfect example of a community coming together for the benefit of all. Beside activities relating to the Palio, contradas have social activities several times a weekly throughout the year. The older men mentor the younger members and all work together for the good of the city. The contradas also spend a lot of time and money organising the Palio. This extraordinary event has deep social, anthropological, religious and cultural meanings. Only by visiting Siena during the last four days of the Palio and experiencing the atmosphere of this amazing event, is it possible to understand its genuine meaning.
Text by Antonio Busiello with Paula Silbey
The horses are the real stars of the race. In fact, a horse can win the Palio by itself even if the jockey gets thrown from it.
Although the contradas can choose and hire their jockeys, they can't choose their horses. This creates great anticipation as tension mounts until the lottery to assign horses takes place four days prior to the Palio. If the assigned horse is good, the contradaioli (members of the contrada) start to celebrate.
The chosen horse and its jockey go to the contrada's stable where a 24-hour guard oversees their safety. In the old days, other contrade would try to harm the horse or jockey. Thus the guarding tradition continues.
While the Sienese consider the horses holy and worship them, the jockeys receive both love and hate from the contradaioli. Why? The jockeys are considered mercenaries, in the race only for the money. The contrade consider strategies all year long. However, when the horses are assigned, they must make immediate decisions about who will ride their horses and make final agreements with the jockeys. Although jockeys vie for the privilege of riding in the Palio, they know that their careers could be comprised and injuries could occur.
One of the most important and exciting moments of the Palio occurs when the "mossiere" tries to line up the horses correctly between front and rear hemp ropes for the actual start. During this crucial process, the jockeys make their agreements and alliances with other jockeys and develop their running strategies. Nine horses are aligned between the ropes while the tenth horse takes up the rear. This tenth jokey and horse decide when to start running at which point the mossiere drops the front rope. The race finally begins as the riders take off in a flash.
Although the actual race lasts less than 90 seconds, lining up the horses can take anywhere from few minutes to hours. On some occasions it takes so long that the race occurs at dusk or even get suspended because it gets too dark. During this lining up period, jockeys make alliances and try to undermine their rivals' chances. Sometimes false starts occur, requiring the mossiere to begin the whole process again. Other times, the jostling of horses gets out of hand and the mossiere starts the positioning process once more. Each time this happens the suspense builds. When the race finally starts tension is at its peak. The horses and jockeys explode over the dropped rope and in less than 90 seconds the winner crosses the finish line.
While the Sienese consider the horses holy and worship them, the jockeys receive both love and hate from the contradaioli. Why? The jockeys are considered mercenaries, in the race only for the money. The contrade consider strategies all year long. However, when the horses are assigned, they must make immediate decisions about who will ride their horses and make final agreements with the jockeys. Although jockeys vie for the privilege of riding in the Palio, they know that their careers could be comprised and injuries could occur.
The night before the Palio each contrada gets together to celebrate.
The night before the Palio each contrada gets together to celebrate.
The night before the Palio each contrada gets together to celebrate.
The night before the Palio each contrada gets together to celebrate.
Historical Parade
Getting Ready for the historical parade
Getting Ready for the historical parade
The contrada is also a social organisation with its own hymn, insignia, museum and private church where the benediction of the horse take place the day of the race.
Early in the afternoon, just before the Palio, each contrada takes its horse and jockey to its own church. There the hopeful and enthusiastic contrade watch as a priest blesses the special horse and its jockey.
Early in the afternoon, just before the Palio, each contrada takes its horse and jockey to its own church. There the hopeful and enthusiastic contrade watch as a priest blesses the special horse and its jockey.
During the three days of trials, the alignment of horses is known by all. However, for the actual Palio, only the Mossiere knows the horses' order until the last minute. As the horses and their jockeys parade to the starting line, tension mounts as all await this crucial announcement. After all, the horses' line-up can affect strategies, alliances and outcomes. As the suspense builds, the Mossiere shows the white envelope to thousands of onlookers. Complete silence overtakes in Piazza del Campo, creating a surreal atmosphere. It seems as if everyone is holding his or her breath. Finally, the Mossiere reads out the order of the race and a storm of shouts and cheers breaks out.
Historical parade
The people of Siena love the Palio horses, the real stars of the race. In fact, a horse can win the Palio by itself even if the jockey gets thrown from it.
Historical parade
During the three days of trials, the alignment of horses is known by all. However, for the actual Palio, only the Mossiere knows the horses' order until the last minute. As the horses and their jockeys parade to the starting line, tension mounts as all await this crucial announcement. After all, the horses' line-up can affect strategies, alliances and outcomes. As the suspense builds, the Mossiere shows the white envelope to thousands of onlookers. Complete silence overtakes in Piazza del Campo, creating a surreal atmosphere. It seems as if everyone is holding his or her breath. Finally, the Mossiere reads out the order of the race and a storm of shouts and cheers breaks out.
Although the actual race lasts less than 90 seconds, lining up the horses can take anywhere from few minutes to hours. On some occasions it takes so long that the race occurs at dusk or even get suspended because it gets too dark. During this lining up period, jockeys make alliances and try to undermine their rivals' chances. Sometimes false starts occur, requiring the mossiere to begin the whole process again. Other times, the jostling of horses gets out of hand and the mossiere starts the positioning process once more. Each time this happens the suspense builds. When the race finally starts tension is at its peak. The horses and jockeys explode over the dropped rope and in less than 90 seconds the winner crosses the finish line.
One of the most important and exciting moments of the Palio occurs when the "mossiere" tries to line up the horses correctly between front and rear hemp ropes for the actual start. During this crucial process, the jockeys make their agreements and alliances with other jockeys and develop their running strategies. Nine horses are aligned between the ropes while the tenth horse takes up the rear. This tenth jokey and horse decide when to start running at which point the mossiere drops the front rope. The race finally begins as the riders take off in a flash.
Although the actual race lasts less than 90 seconds, lining up the horses can take anywhere from few minutes to hours. On some occasions it takes so long that the race occurs at dusk or even get suspended because it gets too dark. During this lining up period, jockeys make alliances and try to undermine their rivals' chances. Sometimes false starts occur, requiring the mossiere to begin the whole process again. Other times, the jostling of horses gets out of hand and the mossiere starts the positioning process once more. Each time this happens the suspense builds. When the race finally starts tension is at its peak. The horses and jockeys explode over the dropped rope and in less than 90 seconds the winner crosses the finish line.
Three laps around the the historic Piazza del Campo comprise the Palio. Although this might seem simple, each lap contains four turns, two of them very curved and dangerous. At the very narrow curve of San Martino many collisions occur and sometimes jockeys are thrown off their horses.
Whichever horse comes around la curva del casato, the last turn of four, usually wins the race.
The Palio banner, known as the "palio" or rag, is the prized trophy awarded to the winning contrada. Each year an artist hand-paints two new silk banners representing a particular historical period in Siena's history. Additionally, each banner must include some sacred symbols because the July Palio is dedicated to the Madonna of Provenzano and the August one honors the Madonna of the Assumption.
Winning the Palio represents the most important honor for the people of Siena. The winning contrada celebrates every day for the number of Palios won in total. For example, if a contrada has won 40 times over the centuries, members of the contrada celebrate with dinners, parties and events for 40 days in a row. Losing the Palio represents a very unhappy event, more so if the contrada's direct enemy wins. Some people take the loss so hard that they don't talk or go out for days.
At the race's conclusion, citizens of the winning contrada go to the designated church to celebrate, dedicate the banner and honor the horse and its rider. Each contrada's museum contains sacred items and past Palios, some dating back centuries.
The older horses retire to the wild Siena countryside where they enjoy their later years and receive continued veterinarian care. The Siena government pays for this idyllic retirement.